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MILLS & CO., DES MOINES. 



A 



TABLE OF MEASURES. 









The annexed table shows the average . proportional 
measures for regular formed persons, including the chest 
and width of back measures (both combined) ; the armseye 
and the proper distance between the top waist and the 
imder-arm lines. No rule can be relied on to determine the 
chest or width of back measures separately, except by care- 
fully measuring from arm to arm with the measuring tape, 
as all forms differ in that respect. The chest and width of 
back measures constitute a triiie more than two-thirds of 
the bust measure. The armseye a trifle less than one-third. 
The three measures combined equal the exact bust measure. 











CO 


O f 




t/5 C 


p 




''H 


Average d 
tance be- 
tween the 
top Waist 
and the u 
der-arm 
Lines. 


^■oS 


:j s^-°S 


m 

(U i^ a; 




jS §03 3 8 


■r.^ 


><E 



23 

24 
25 
26 
27 
28 
29 
30 
31 
32 
33 
34 
35 
36 
37 
38 
39 
40 
41 
42 
43 
44 
45 
46 
47 
48 



Inches. 



17 Inches. 

18 

19 

I9i 

20 

20i 

21 

21i 

22 

22.^ 

J3 

24 

241 

25 

26 

26i 

27 

28 

28i 

29 



,30 
i30i 

131 
132 



10 I 

11 

12 

m 

m^ 

13 

\Zh 

14 

I4i 

15 

ibh 

16 

16^ 

17 

17^ 

m 

18 

18.i 

181 



m 

20 
20 to 



nches. 


04 . 




5^ 




51 . 




6 . 




6i. 




6i. 




6^. 




6f . 




7 . 




7i. 




n. 




71. 




8 . 




8i 




8i. 




81. 




9 . 




9i. 




9t. 




9-^. 




n. 




n. 




n. 




10 . 


<> 


lOi. 


22 in. 


10\ . 



. to . 
. to . 
. to . 
. to . 
. to . 
. to . 
. to . 
. to . 
. to . 
. to . 
. to . 
. to . 
. to . 
. to . 
. to . 
. to . 
. to . 
. to . 
. to . 
. to . 
. to . 
. to . 
. to . 
. to . 
. to . 
. to . 



5i Inches. 

51 

6 

6i 

6f 

6S 

7 

7i 

7h 

n 

8 
8i 

81 



n 



10 
lOi 
10^ 
10^ 



Note. — After the measures are taken and before the customer leaves 
compare them with the table of average measures, and should they vary 
much make sure they are right before ^ey leaTe. 



J 




I, by H. Ayres Jaokson. 



it f%: 



The ann( 
measures fo 
and width o 
and the pre 
under-arm ] 
chest or wid 
fully mea^u] 
as all forms 
back measu 
the bust me 
The three n 



23 Inchec 

24 

25 

26 

27 

28 

29 

30 ' " 

31 

32 

33 

34 

35 

36 

37 

38 

39 

40 

41 

42 

43 

44 

45 

46 

47 

4S ;;_ 

Note.— Af 
compare the 
much make ; 



J? 



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Thk Measurbs in this Draft. 
Size of Bust, 36. 
Size of Waist, 25. 
Width of Chest, l^. 
Width of Back, 12. 
l>enp;th of Back, 17. 
Length, under Ann, 8. 
Length of Shoulder, 5^. 
Size of Armseye, 16. 
Length to Waist Point, 20. 
Si^e of Hips, 43. 




^^^/o 



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Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 1882, 

By H. a. JACKSON. 



"ijN these days of progress, as the steam engine has super- 
JjD seded the old six-horse stage coach, the electric light is 
taking the place of the old oil lamp, the lightnings of heaven 
become the passive servant of man to carry intelligence, so 
corresponding progress has been made in other arts, among 
Nvhich is the application of geometry as embodied in the 
Franco-Pkussian Mode, which is becoming the slogan 
that will break in pieces and trample in the dust the old 
rusty ideas of cutting and fitting ladies' costumes, the scien- 
tific application of strictly mathematical principles can be 
found in no other system of dress cutting. The many charts 
claiming to be French Tailor Sty stems, and improvements 
on S. T. Tailor System, are frauds upon their face. Any 
form of diagram, on pasteboard with perforated outlines, 
are simply charts and nothing more. 

After nearly four years' contest in the Patent Office, we 
hold a clean patent covering the vital principles embodied 
in our system, and all persons are warned against trespass 
upon said principles under penalties. 

This system wherever tested comes out ahead. It will fit 
forms that cannot be fitted by any other system. The Hip 



4 FRANCO-PRUSSIAN MODE MEASURES. 

Rule is complete, and the Sleeve the only practical one ever 
invented. Costumes cut by this system assume a more 
east/ and graceful appearance, one-half of your time is saved 
as no changes are necessary, your anxiety becomes a pleasure , 
as you guess at nothing. No dressmaker can afford to be 
without it. 

The Franco-Prussian Mode is sold as follows : 

Single (includiDg Hip Rule and Sleeve), with full instructions $20.00 

" " '' " '^ " without " " .... ;o.OO 

Three Modes at one time including Instruction Book 21.00 

Six " " " " " " '' 40.00 

Twelve " " " " " " " 75.00 

Price of our Limited Geometrical System with Sleeve (chart 

form) : 

Single with Sleeve and printed instructions .% 5.00 

Single both Sleeve and Hip Rule, full system instructions 10.00 

One dozen including Sleeve and printed instructions 20.00 

Agencies for special territory on advantageous terms. 

Persons sending orders from a distance should always en- 
close a Post-office order for the amount wanted; but if sent 
C. 0. D., at least $1.00 should be enclosed with the order to 
ensure the express charges. 

Address all orders to 

H. AYRES JACKSON, 

Inventor and Patentee, 

P. O. Box ^, Chicago, 111. 
Or, Branch Office, Des Moines, Iowa. ^ v=^ 



Entered according to Act of Congress in the year of 1882, 
By H, a. Jackson, 



FRANCO-PRUSSIAN MODE MEASURES. 



Dress Makers should bear in mind that the Franco- 
Prussian Mode is a Draft from Actual Measure, for Cutting 
Dresses, Cloaks, Basques, etc.; also, Gent's Coats, Vests, 
Shii'ts, etc. ; hence the necessity of always getting correct 
and j^roper measures; then place them on paper to avoid 
mistakes, pla-ciug" the name of the party at the head of the 
measitreSj to avoid substituting' the measures of wrong 
party. 

Never Measure any Person until you see they are dressed 
as they desire to be when wearing* the garment to be fitted. 
En case artificial fullness is wanted, supply it. 

1. The Bust Measure should be easy. Stand fronting 

the party being measured; carry the tape straight 
across the Back, just under the shoulder blades, then 
bring it around over the fullest part of the Bust; now 
hold with thumb and finger, and turn the party around 
and see they stand in a perfectly natural position, 
the arms dropping at the sides, etc., and that your 
tape is properly placed; then, without drawing too 
tight, ascertain your measure. If it seems to come be- 
tween two sizes always take the largest one, then allow 
1% inches for fullness. 

2. Waist. — Measure tight around the smallest part of the 

Waist. 



FRANCO PRUSSIAN MEASURES. 

3. Chest. — Measure close from arm to arm, just above the 

Bust. (Determine where the arm joins the body by 
raising and lowering the arm.) 

4. Width of Back. — Measure close from arm to arm, 

above the shoulder blade. 

5. Length of Back.— Place your tape on the top bone 

of the spinal column, then measure down to bottom of 
belt. 

6. Under Arm. — Place the end of the tape under the 

arm, "easy,'' then carry it down to bottom of belt. 

dt^^This is an important measure, and too much care can- 
not be taken in having it just right, and you should always 
see that the top of the tape comes just to the muscle under 
the arm as it joins the body, never too close up, or too slack, 
making it too long or too short. 

7. Armseye. — Carry the tape under the arm and over the 

point of shoulder close . 

8. Shoulder.— Place the end of tape as high on the neck 

as you desire to carry the dress, then down to point 
of shoulder. 

9. "Neck and Front. — Place the end of tape on top 

bone of Spinal Column, then carry it to center of Bust, 
close but east/ — then down front to bottom of Belt. 

10. Hips. — Measure loosely around the hips, then allow 
three inches. 



^^■^ 



FRANCO -PRUSSIAN MEASURES. 7 

Rules to draft by the Franco-Prussian Mode, 
as explained by cuts in front of book. 



First. Draw a line across top of Paper (marked 1) for top 
line. 

Second. Draw Bust Line \}4 inches from left hand edge 
of Paper (marked 2). 

Third. Take the Scale indicating the Bust measure 
wanted, and measure its length on top line from 2 to 3 and 
from 3 to 4, marking each point, then on bottom of Paper 
from 5 to 6 and from 6 to 7, then draw straight lines 4 to II 
and from 3 to 6, for back and center lines. 

Fourth. Now calculate on your tape one half of the 
armseye measure, then add to it 3^ inch, then measure that 
distance on Bust-line 2 to 8, and on Back-line 4 to 9, then 
find tinder-arm measure on tape, then measure that distance 
on Bust-line 8 to 10, and on Back-line 9 to 11, then draw 
under- arm line 8 to 9, and the bottom Waist- line 5 to 7. 

Fifth. Now find one-half of the chest measure on your 
tape, and then measure it on under-arm line 8 to 12, then 
measure one-half of the width of back measure on same line 
9 to 13, always marking plain where all measures terminate. 

Sixth. Now take the scale and measure six numbers from 
top line down on bust line and mark at 14 for front of Neck 
then six numbers to right of 1 on top line and mark at 
15 for neck and shoulder guide, then three numbers down 
from 3 on center line and mark at 16 for shoulder line, then 
four numbers to left of 4 on top line and mark at 17 for 
width of back and back shoulder point, then three numbers 



8 FRANCO -PRUSSIAN MEASURES. 

straight up from 12 and mark at 18 for front of armseye 
g-uide, then three numbers straight up from 13 and mark at 
19 for back armseye guide, then seven numbers straight up 
from 19 and mark at 20 for point of back shoulder guide 
and draw Hne 20 to 19. 

Seventh. Draw lines from 15 to 16, and 20 to 17 for front 
and back shoulder lines, then with tape measure for front 
shoulder 15 to 21 (53^ inches), then measure for back shoulder 
17 to 22 (6 inches). 

Eighth. Take the Mode in left hand and place the front 
neck point at 14 and carry the neck points back to 15 and 
draw the neck curve. Then take the Mode in right hand 
and place the front armseye form at 21, and so it shall at the 
same time pass ^ inch to right of 18, and the bottom arms- 
eye form crossing the under-arm line at 23, then draw the 
front of armseye curve, then turn the Mode over, face down, 
and with the same curve, draw back of armseye 22 to 24, 
then measure the armseye, and if more than % of an inch too 
large, or ^ inch too small, raise or lower the under-arm, 
and bottom Waist-hnes % inch for every inch desired 
change. 

Ninth. Take the scale and measure seven numbers down 
from 8 on Bust-line, and mark at 25, then five numbers down 
from 26, on center line, and mark at 27, then draw 25 to 27 for 
top dart line, then scale six numbers to right of 25 and mark 
28, then scale six numbers to right of 28 and mark 29 for top 
of dart guides, then scale three numbers to right of 5 on 
bottom Waist-line and mark at 30, then three more numbers 
to 31, one number to 32, and four numbers to 33; now place 
the dart point of Mode at 23 and draw line to 30, then from 



FRANCO-PRUSSIAN MEASURES. 9 

29 to 32, then turn the dart form over and draw curves 29 
to 33 and 28 to 31. 

Tenth. With tape measure down on the Back-line three 
inches below top-line mark at 34, then measure %, of an 
inch to left of 7 on back4ine and mark 35, then draw line 

34 to 35 for back slope, then scale three numbers to left of 

35 and mark 36 for width of Back at bottom, then draw 
short line 37, 3^ inch above 19 in back armseye, then place 
the front neck point on Mode at 37, carrying* the bust form 
down to 36, then draw the Back Curve. 

Eleventh. Now take the figure on your tape which denotes 
one-half of the waist measure (say 123^ inches), between 
thumb and fing-er of the right hand, the end of the tape to 
the left^ then place the figure (123^) at 35, and measure out 
to 36, width of back; next measure out between the darts, 
and then front of the darts 30 to 5, then carry the tape to the 
right until the end reaches the back dart line at 33, at which 
hold the end with the left hand, measuring the balance 8^ 
inches to the right, and marking at 38. This shows the sur- 
plus goods for a 36 inch Bust and a 25 inch Waist to be 1)^ 
inches, which surplus divide in the center at 39, then carry 
the other half to the left of 6 on center line and mark at 40. 

Twelfth, Now. place the end of Bust form (2 inches from 
front neck Point) at 37 and draw curve 37 to 39, then place 
the end of tape at 6, carry to the right hand, place the 
thumb nail of right hand on the tape and hold firmly on the 
line at 39, then double the tape and mark at 41 so to evenly 
divide the goods betweeen the side-back and under-arm 
patterns, then place the end of the tape on under-arm line 
at 26 and carry to 42, then double and mark at 43, then 
draw line 43 to 41. 



10 FRANCO-PRUSSIAN MEASURES. 

Thirteenth. Now mark at 44 half way between 26 and 27 
on center line, then mark at 45, one inch below 43, and one- 
half inch up from bottom Waist-line, at 46 and 47 (above 
6 and 41), then mark on center line at 48 (one inch below 
dart line 27), then place Bust form of Mode at 48 and draw 
curve to 40, then with dart form draw 45 to 47 and 44 to 46, 
also 45 to 49. These curves should not exceed one- eighth 
inch each. 

Fourteenth. Now take your tape and place the end at 4, 
on back line, measure to 17 {1% inches), place the 1% inches 
on front shoulder at 15, then carry the tape down to 8 on 
Bust-line, thence down on Bust-line the length of Neck and 
Point measure 20 inches, then mark at 50, then draw line 
50 to 40 for point of Waist, then measure the length of back 
and draw slope 51 to 52, then measure from 37 to 51 and 
place the same measure at 53 and carry it down two 54, then 
draw slope 41 to 54. The side-back shows two triangles, one 
to top 53 to 42, the other at the bottom 55 to 54. These vary 
from % to % of an inch at the base, according to the size 
and form of person; they are basted off to control arinseye 
and form at waist. 

Fifteenth. Now place the Mode, face down, dart form 1 
to the right, on the back slope line, the notch below dart 
form, two inches above the under-arm line at 56, and place 
so the form crosses the back slope line at 35, and draw curve 
for back slope dart to 52. 

Sixteenth. Now measure out from Bust-line at 25 one inch 
and mark at 57, then measure out % of an inch at 58, and 
% of an inch to left of 50 and mark 59, and then take the 
bust form of Mode, square end up, and place the point 
3^ of an inch in from 14 at 60, and draw curve 60 to 57, 



FRANCO-PRUSSIA.N MEASURES. II 

then turn the Mode face down, place the extreme dart point 
at 57, the form touching 58 and 59, at same time then draw- 
front curve as shown. 

Seventeenth. In cutting out your Draft, use great care in 
cutting smoothly on the lines, leaving a portion of the line 
on the goods side of the pattern, and thus always preserve 
the correct outlines of the draft, and when you cut the goods, 
first pin the pattern smoothly on the goods, and then allow 
ample seams on every line, except the Arms-eye and Neck; 
by following this rule you will save all errors. 



•*->^^|^^-*-^ 



12 FRANCO-PRUSSIAN MEASURES. 



^IDRESSMSKERS * BEWSRE!^^ 

Infringements on the Franco-Prussian Mode of Dress- 
cutting is extensively practiced. The system bearijig the 
mark, " Mrs. F. J. Kellogg's French Taylor System, Flint, 
Mich., Pat'd Dec. 4th, '79," was stolen bodily from the 
" Mode " (but is a poor counterfeit). No such patent ever 
issued; and to prevent your being imposed upon, will say 
the Franco-Prussian Mode of Dress-cutting is the only ac- 
tual measure system on earth, with only one mathematically 
graduated scale for each sized person measured, and by a 
geometrical Eccentric Curve, adapting itself to all forms, 
thus insuring a positive fit ivithout refitting, which Scales 
and Curves both separately and combined, with accompany- 
ing measure directions, were duly copyrighted and a patent 
applied for in 1878-79 SI^^Remember! no other system 
has Scales and Curves as above, either separate or combined, 
without infringing on my invention, and I shall prosecute 
all parties found either selling or using any system embody- 
ing infringements on the Franco-Prussian Mode, which is 
the only system ever invented mathematically complete in 
itself, combining the only valuable Hip Rule and sleeve ever 
invented. 

All orders, address - 

H. A. JACKSON, Inventor, 

p. O. Box 358, Chicago, 111., 

or Des Moines, Iowa. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



^V^^ 



fTRAN* 




013 973 



^^X. 

Is the result of 30 years' experience in active business in 
several of the leading cities in the Union; also, in England, 
France and Germany, and to-day stands witliont a peer. No 
Tbytng on, or Fitting garments necesary when this MODE 
is used. The Drafts are all from actual measure, and must 
result in perfect fitting garments, which can never he accom- 
2)Ushecl by any Chart in existence. And the labor of one day 
will do more ivork where this MODE is used, than can be 
accompUahed in three days, where Charts and the common 
ways of Jitt in g are used. Any accomplished Cutter by this, 
MODE can do the Cutting for 80 to 100 hands, easily, in large 
establishments, or can Cut from 6 to 10 Dresses in a day. 

This MODE not only saves time, and the danger of spoiling 
goods, but gives Better Fits than can be had by any other 
Mode of Cutting. 

WE CHALLENGE THE WORLD 

To l^RODUCE A Mode Neak its Equal !, 



Price of MODE, $10.00 and Instructions $10.00. 

J^*Agents Wanted in all the States; also, Canada. 
For further information address 

H. A. JACKSON, 

Inventor and Patentee, 

P. O. Box 358, Chicago. 

N. B.— All persons infringing on this Mode will be prosecuted 
to the full extent of the law. 



UBBARV OF CONGRESS 




'0013973 004 5 




